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“Surfing is very much like making love. It always feels good, no matter how many times you’ve done it”
Surfing is not a sport. It is a way of life !
Wouldn’t waste time introducing you to the history, science and geography of Surfing here. You could google instead.
What we will tell you is why you should go surfing at all. Paul Strauch got it right when he said the afore mentioned words. You see, surfing is an almost Zen-like experience. To feel the power and might of the sea, the calming aggression of its waves, the feel of being tossed about in surrender is a very spiritual and moving experience.
It is important to break-free from the clutter-filled life, from the tyranny of monotonous life to go out and submit yourself to Nature and discover ones deep inner being cuddled in her embrace. To synchronize your pulse with the life that’s around, resonate and feel one with the cosmos. No “HR trainers” are required to help you commune with Nature. Give some time and you will find your secret spot.
When you are on that board, staring at that giant wave coming your wave, with your feet dancing about, ears enjoying the sounds of wave. There, when you close your eyes. Magic happens. And one must surf just for this.